Retinol vs. Bakuchiol: Which Is Better?
Key Takeaways
- Bakuchiol is plant-derived and not chemically a retinoid, yet it may produce some retinol-like effects
- A 12-week clinical trial found bakuchiol and retinol produced similar improvements in fine lines and hyperpigmentation
- Retinol was linked to significantly more scaling and stinging than bakuchiol in that same study
- Retinol still has the deeper, decades-long clinical evidence base overall
- Three Ships SkinHero™ offers 2% bakuchiol for those seeking a gentler, non-retinoid option for visible signs of skin aging
Bakuchiol is often described as a plant-derived alternative to retinol, but it is not a retinoid. Although it has no structural resemblance to retinoids, preclinical research suggests that bakuchiol can produce some retinol-like effects through overlapping changes in gene expression. Retinol has a much deeper clinical evidence base, while bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient with promising but more limited human research.
One randomized, double-masked clinical trial directly compared 0.5% bakuchiol, used twice daily, with 0.5% retinol, used once daily, over 12 weeks. Both groups showed statistically significant improvements from baseline in fine-wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between the groups for the measured outcomes. The retinol group experienced significantly more facial scaling and stinging.
So, is bakuchiol better than retinol? Not necessarily. Retinol has the advantage when it comes to the depth of clinical evidence. Bakuchiol may be worth considering for people who prioritize tolerability or find retinol difficult to tolerate consistently.
Here's what the research actually shows and how the two ingredients compare.
Retinol vs. Bakuchiol: The Short Answer
Retinol has the stronger overall clinical evidence base. Bakuchiol has promising human evidence and may offer a more favorable tolerability profile for some people.
If your skin tolerates retinol well and you want an ingredient that has been studied extensively over several decades, retinol remains a well-supported option for wrinkle care and other visible signs of skin aging.
If retinol causes persistent irritation or you prefer a non-retinoid active, bakuchiol is worth considering. The available human research is encouraging, but it is considerably smaller and more heterogeneous than the evidence base for retinol. A 2024 systematic review of 15 human clinical trials highlighted substantial variation in study designs, formulations, and outcomes, with many studies lacking control groups or using combination formulations. The authors concluded that better-designed trials are still needed.
That distinction is important: promising evidence is not the same as decades of established evidence.
What Is Retinol?
Retinol is a vitamin A-derived retinoid. When applied to the skin, retinol is converted through enzymatic steps to retinaldehyde and then retinoic acid, the biologically active retinoid that activates retinoid receptors.
These effects can influence cellular processes involved in skin renewal and collagen-related processes and are associated with improvements in skin texture, pigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles over time. Retinoids have been studied extensively for skin aging, giving them a substantially larger clinical evidence base than newer ingredients such as bakuchiol.
Retinol does have a trade-off: irritation.
Dryness, scaling, redness, and stinging can occur, particularly when someone is new to retinoids or introduces a product too quickly. Dermatologists often recommend starting gradually and adjusting frequency according to how the skin responds.
Retinoids can increase the skin's susceptibility to irritation from sun exposure, which is why dermatologists commonly recommend using them in the evening and protecting the skin from sun exposure during the day.
What Is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol found in the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant also known as babchi. Unlike retinol, it is not a retinoid and does not share retinol's chemical structure.
What makes bakuchiol interesting is that preclinical research suggests it can produce some retinol-like effects despite having a different chemical structure. In a 2014 study, researchers found substantial similarities between bakuchiol and retinol in their effects on gene expression, suggesting that bakuchiol may function as a retinol-like compound through changes in gene expression.
That may help explain why bakuchiol can produce some retinol-like cosmetic effects without being a retinoid itself.
But mechanism and clinical outcome are not the same thing. Laboratory and preclinical findings can help researchers understand how an ingredient might work, but human clinical trials provide stronger evidence for whether those effects translate into visible improvements in skin.
And that is where the evidence for bakuchiol becomes more nuanced.
A 2022 systematic review identified 30 articles matching its search terms. One did not meet the inclusion criteria; among the 29 included articles, 16 were preclinical studies, seven were clinical studies, three were commentaries, two were narrative reviews, and one was an adverse-event report. The authors concluded that bakuchiol is a retinol alternative with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties, while additional studies are needed to understand its applications in dermatology better.
A 2024 systematic review analyzed 15 human clinical trials involving topical formulations containing bakuchiol. Twelve were unblinded, open-label studies without a control group, and 10 used combination formulations containing bakuchiol. The review found substantial variation in treatments, study designs, and measured outcomes, making meta-analysis unfeasible. The authors also identified a high risk of bias across the available evidence and concluded that better-designed clinical trials are needed.
In other words, the evidence for bakuchiol is growing, but it remains considerably smaller and more heterogeneous than the clinical evidence supporting retinol.
The Clinical Trial That Directly Compared Them
The most useful study for answering the retinol-versus-bakuchiol question is a randomized, double-masked clinical trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019.
Researchers randomized 44 participants to use either:
- 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily, or
- 0.5% retinol cream once daily
The study lasted 12 weeks, with assessments at baseline and at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Researchers evaluated wrinkle surface area, hyperpigmentation, redness, and participant-reported side effects.
What did the study find?
Both groups showed statistically significant reductions in fine-wrinkle surface area from baseline.
At 12 weeks, the decrease in wrinkle surface area was approximately 19% with bakuchiol and 23.2% with retinol. The difference between the two groups was not statistically significant.
Both groups also showed improvements in hyperpigmentation, and the researchers found no statistically significant difference between bakuchiol and retinol for the pigmentation measures they assessed.
The clearest difference was tolerability
The retinol group experienced significantly more facial scaling and stinging. The study also found more subjective reports of itching and burning with retinol, although those particular differences were not statistically significant.
This is the finding that makes bakuchiol particularly interesting. The study did not prove that bakuchiol is universally better than retinol. Instead, it showed that, under the specific conditions tested, bakuchiol produced similar measured improvements over 12 weeks and was associated with fewer reported irritation-related effects.
The study also had important limitations. Only 44 participants were randomized, seven participants ultimately dropped out, and the study lasted just 12 weeks. The study assessed clinical and participant-reported outcomes rather than directly measuring biological changes such as collagen production.
That means the results are promising, but they should not be treated as proof that bakuchiol and retinol are interchangeable in every situation.
Why Might Bakuchiol Produce Retinol-Like Effects?
The answer is still being investigated.
Preclinical research suggests that bakuchiol can influence some gene-expression pathways also affected by retinol. This may help explain why a non-retinoid compound has produced some retinol-like effects in clinical studies.
But this distinction matters:
Bakuchiol does not need to be a retinoid to have retinol-like effects, and retinol-like effects do not mean that bakuchiol has the same mechanism as retinol.
The two ingredients have different chemical structures and interact with skin biology differently. Researchers are still working to understand exactly how those differences translate into clinical effects.
For consumers, the practical takeaway is simpler: bakuchiol has enough human evidence to be considered a promising retinol alternative, but not enough evidence to claim the same long-term clinical track record.
Retinol vs. Bakuchiol: Side-by-Side Comparison
| Factor | Retinol | Bakuchiol |
|---|---|---|
| Evidence base | Extensive clinical evidence accumulated over decades | Growing evidence base, but substantially smaller |
| Wrinkle care | Strong clinical support | Promising clinical evidence; no statistically significant difference from retinol in the 2019 head-to-head trial |
| Hyperpigmentation | Well-established use | Improved hyperpigmentation measures in the 2019 trial, although comparative evidence remains limited |
| Tolerability | Can cause dryness, scaling, redness, and stinging, especially during adjustment | Generally well tolerated in available clinical trials, but irritation or allergic reactions can occur, and comparative evidence is limited |
| Sun exposure | Can increase skin sensitivity to irritation from sun exposure; nighttime use and sun protection are recommended | There is no established evidence that bakuchiol increases photosensitivity |
| Pregnancy | Topical retinoids are generally avoided during pregnancy | Not a retinoid, but pregnancy-specific safety data are limited |
| Routine flexibility | May require gradual introduction, particularly alongside other potentially irritating actives | May be easier for some people to tolerate, although overall routine irritation still matters |
The comparison is therefore less about declaring a winner and more about understanding the trade-offs.
Retinol has the evidence advantage. Bakuchiol showed a potentially more favorable tolerability profile in the available clinical research.
For skincare, the ingredient you can use consistently may ultimately be more useful than one you cannot comfortably tolerate.
Who Should Choose Retinol vs. Bakuchiol?
There is no universal winner between retinol and bakuchiol. The better option depends on your skin's tolerance, your skincare goals, and how much weight you place on the depth of clinical evidence.
When Retinol May Be the Better Fit
Retinol has been studied extensively over several decades. That gives it a clear advantage when it comes to the amount and duration of human clinical evidence supporting its use for visible signs of skin aging.
If your skin tolerates retinol well and you are primarily interested in wrinkle care, uneven pigmentation, or skin texture, retinol remains a well-supported option.
That does not mean more evidence automatically makes an ingredient better for every person.
Retinoid-related irritation can make it difficult for some people to use retinol consistently. Dermatologists often recommend starting with lower-frequency application and increasing gradually as tolerated. Moisturization can also help reduce irritation.
Bakuchiol May Make Sense If Tolerability Is a Priority
Bakuchiol may be worth considering if retinol has been difficult for your skin to tolerate.
In the 2019 head-to-head trial, participants using bakuchiol experienced similar measured improvements in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation over 12 weeks, while reporting significantly less facial scaling and stinging than the retinol group.
That does not establish that every person will tolerate bakuchiol better. The study was relatively small and was not specifically designed to evaluate people with sensitive skin.
Still, the finding provides a reasonable basis for considering bakuchiol when tolerability is a priority. The broader clinical evidence is encouraging but limited.
So bakuchiol is best described as a promising alternative, rather than a proven replacement for retinol in every situation.
What About Pregnancy?
Retinol belongs to the retinoid family, and dermatology guidance recommends avoiding retinoids during pregnancy.
Bakuchiol is not a retinoid. However, that fact should not be interpreted as proof that bakuchiol is established as safe during pregnancy.
The clinical literature on bakuchiol remains limited, and pregnancy-specific safety has not been adequately established. If you are pregnant, trying to conceive, or breastfeeding, talk with your healthcare provider before introducing a new active skincare ingredient.
This is an important distinction: "not a retinoid" does not automatically mean "proven safe during pregnancy."
Can You Use Retinol and Bakuchiol Together?
Some skincare formulations combine retinol and bakuchiol, but the combination has not been studied as extensively as either ingredient individually. There is not enough evidence to conclude that using both is necessary or better than choosing one.
If you want to use both, introduce one active at a time and give your skin time to adjust. That makes it easier to identify the source of any irritation. Using multiple anti-aging products in a short period can also increase the risk of irritation.
For many people, there is no need to use both. If bakuchiol fits your goals and your skin tolerates it well, a bakuchiol-focused routine may be sufficient.
How Three Ships SkinHero™ Fits In
Three Ships SkinHero™ Calendula + 2% Bakuchiol Bio-Retinol Serum is formulated with 2% bakuchiol alongside calendula. It is designed for people interested in incorporating bakuchiol into a wrinkle-care routine without using a retinoid.
The product's 2% bakuchiol concentration is important to put into context.
The 2019 head-to-head clinical trial used 0.5% bakuchiol, not the 2% concentration in SkinHero™. Therefore, the study provides evidence about bakuchiol as an ingredient, but it should not be presented as clinical proof that SkinHero™ produces the exact outcomes reported in that trial.
That distinction is part of responsible skincare education. Evidence for an ingredient does not automatically establish the same clinical evidence for every formulation containing that ingredient.
For someone interested in trying a bakuchiol-based serum, SkinHero™ offers one way to incorporate the ingredient into a skincare routine. Its role is best understood through the evidence for bakuchiol itself, alongside the formulation-specific information provided by Three Ships.
How Long Does Bakuchiol Take to Work?
In the 2019 clinical trial, researchers assessed participants at 4, 8, and 12 weeks.
Changes in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation were assessed over the course of the study, with the largest measured wrinkle improvement occurring at 12 weeks.
That does not mean everyone will see visible changes on the same timeline.
Results can vary depending on the formulation, frequency of use, skin characteristics, and the concern being addressed. As with most skincare actives, consistent use over time is more informative than judging an ingredient after only a few applications.
The Bottom Line
So, which is better: retinol or bakuchiol?
Retinol wins on evidence depth. Bakuchiol is promising for people who prioritize tolerability. Current research does not establish that either ingredient is universally better.
The strongest direct comparison comes from the 2019 randomized, double-masked trial. After 12 weeks, both 0.5% bakuchiol and 0.5% retinol improved measured wrinkle and pigmentation outcomes, with no statistically significant difference between the groups. Retinol was associated with more scaling and stinging.
But one 12-week study cannot put bakuchiol on equal scientific footing with an ingredient that has been investigated extensively for decades.
That distinction is reinforced by the 2024 systematic review of human bakuchiol trials, which found substantial variation in study design and a high risk of bias among much of the available evidence. The researchers concluded that better-designed clinical trials are needed.
So instead of asking which ingredient is universally better, ask:
Which ingredient fits your skin, your goals, and your ability to use it consistently?
If your skin tolerates retinol well and you want the ingredient with the deepest clinical evidence, retinol remains a well-supported choice.
If retinol is difficult for your skin to tolerate, bakuchiol is a scientifically interesting alternative. The evidence is still developing, but the available clinical research supports its potential as a more tolerable option.
In skincare, consistency matters. The best active for you may ultimately be the one your skin can comfortably accommodate over time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?
Why is retinol more irritating than bakuchiol?
Can I use bakuchiol and retinol together?
Can I use bakuchiol during pregnancy?
How long does bakuchiol take to show results?
Is bakuchiol better for sensitive skin than retinol?
References
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38564402/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24471735/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36176207/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38564402/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/